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of ONCE A GENTLEMAN

Miroir de la Mode
Court Dress
February 1804
Published by Madame Lanchester


In Once a Gentleman, the final book in the Ladies' Fashionable Cabinet trilogy, Prudence, the heroine, has occasion to deal with a modiste (ie a dressmaker or designer) called Madame Lanchester. This lady is not an invention of the author. She did exist, and was in fact a very prominent modiste in early 19th century London.

Though she is said to have craved publicity, there is precious little information available about Madame Lanchester. Her designs appeared in fashion plates from many of the important ladies' magazines of the day, including Ackermann's Repository of Arts and La Belle Assemblée) so it seemed appropriate that she would want her dresses seen in prints in the Ladies' Fashionable Cabinet, the fictional magazine for which Prudence is the acting editor-in-chief.

Madame Lanchester is thought to have been English, "Madame" being an affection to inspire confidence in a clientele that looked to Paris for the latest fashions. She had a showroom on New Bond Street, and had at least one known pupil, Mrs. Osgood, who went on to make a name for herself as a fashionable modiste. Most interesting is that for a very brief period, 1803-4, Madame Lanchester published her own fashion magazine, La Miroir de la Mode (another French affectation).

The plates from that publication are of a very high quality, beautifully engraved and painted, and often incorporating bits of gold and silver paint. They are printed on heavy paper and are full quarto size, ie much larger than the prints seen in the Collections on this site. Such production qualities were expensive. It can be assumed, therefore, that La Miroir de la Mode was an upscale publication targeted to the upper class, which is in keeping with the little we know about Madame Lanchester. Its short life-span is likely because it was simply too expensive to produce.


When Ackermann's Repository of Arts began publication in 1809, Madame Lanchester appears to have briefly played the role of fashion editor. In the inaugural issue of that publication, the descriptions of the fashion plates are followed by this note: "It is almost unnecessary to add that the design and description of the ladies' fashions in this month are under the direction of Madame Lanchester, whose taste in the department of ladies' dress and female ornaments is so well known as to render any eulogium unnecessary." She must certainly have been an important figure in the world of fashion, a name familiar to the readers of the Repository. She continues to be mentioned in the next three issues as having furnished the designs for the plates "in her usual taste." By May of that year, however, her name disappears in the commentary, but a personage called Arbiter Elegantarium offers General Observations on fashion beginning that month and continuing for several years. Could this have been Madame Lanchester?

Despite the scarcity of information on Madame Lanchester, or perhaps because of it, I thought it would be fun to give her a role to play in Once a Gentleman. The fashion editor of the Ladies' Fashionable Cabinet, the ever-stylish Flora Gallagher, would certainly have patronized such a well-known and fashionable modiste. And who better to enlist in the transformation of Prudence from a Plain Jane into a striking beauty?

Besides the print shown above from her own publication, which is heavily embellished with silver metallic paint, you can see more of Madame Lanchester's designs in the Collections article on Walking Dresses 1806-1812. Figure 1 in that article shows two of her dresses in an early print from La Belle Assemblée.

 

 

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